Carnival in Budva

Well, the floods finally overwhelmed us, and we fled to Budva... One of the nice things about being a Tipperary lad is that, no matter where you go, you have a global Mafia of excellent cousins who will aid and assist you in times of affliction. Thus a splendid time was had in Budva, thanks chiefly to my cousin Colm Mitchell, who runs the Irish bar in the old town, Chest O'Sheas. (Yes, there is a story behind that name, but I cannot tell it to you...)

We ate, we drank, we Carnivalled in splendid feathered masks. Photos may - or may not - be posted when I get back to Berlin and run them past the lawyers. Much film script got written, over many cappuccinos, each morning in Hemingway's. And we had two of the most enjoyable meals I've ever had. The first was on our first night, in the huge and atmospheric Jadran, on the seafront. Grilled squid, octopus salad, spuds and Swiss chard. Stunning domestic wines, whose names I, shamefully, do not recall. (A red as rich as port... a white as crisp as apples...) Extraordinary singing from the vocal quartet who drifted from table to table, singing a glorious mixture of songs, from Serbian Orthodox religious stuff to Stand By Me. And a waiter who really should run for president. (His name is entirely comprised of those syllables which you can write in Cyrillic but not in English, so I am not brave enought to try putting it down here.)

The second great meal was in Knez, in the old town, on our last night. The restaurant is so intimate (three tables, and the kitchen's in the corner), that you are in severe danger of joining the family by the end of the evening and never leaving. Petar was both chef and maître d', welcoming guests with one hand while doing extraordinary things to fish with the other. A remarkable performance from a top chap. (And he gave us free strawberries and biscuits! Hero!)

To set your mind at ease, we had some rotten meals elsewhere, but I shall not name and shame. These two really stood out (and were of course the two recommendations Colm made... run to him! Seek his wisdom, oh visitor to Budva!)

Anyway, that idyll has now ended, and a new one begun in Dubrovnik... more on that later, perhaps... Got to order some coffee and write in the sunshine now...